A Hokkaido Sojourn: From Sapporo's Smoked Beef Croissants to Moerenuma's Majestic Fountains

A Whimsical Arrival at Sapporo Station

The journey begins with a stroll through Sapporo Station, where the allure of a smoked beef croissant beckons. Priced at 691 yen, this culinary delight stands apart with its unique croissant, a far cry from the mundane ones you might expect. The initial plan was to buy something near the station before heading to the hotel, but the husband’s grumbling stomach dictates a different route. Satiated and content, we embark on a leisurely 7-8 minute walk to the hotel, a testament to the city’s walkable charm.

Keihan Hotel: A Cozy Retreat in the Heart of Sapporo

Today’s accommodation is the Keihan Hotel, a haven offering a double room with breakfast for 13,180 yen. The room is compact but comfortable, sharing a double bed amidst a quaint space. The bedside lamp, slightly dim, adds a cozy ambiance to the room. It’s worth noting that toiletries are not provided, so remember to pack your own essentials.

Breakfast with a Hokkaido Twist

The next morning, we descend to the first floor, where breakfast awaits from 6:30 AM. The spread is modest yet delightful, featuring Hokkaido specialties like herring, stewed burdock and beef, and steamed wild vegetables for soup curry. The breakfast is complemented by Hokkaido Satsuraku milk and a rare treat, cornbread, which adds a unique twist to the morning meal. The breakfast exceeds expectations, offering a more satisfying experience than the standard fare at ordinary business hotels.

Unmasking the Tram Melody

In the hotel room, the faint hum of the tram can be heard, a gentle reminder of the city’s vibrant pulse just beyond the walls. It’s a quaint quirk that adds to the hotel’s charm, albeit a slight compromise on soundproofing.

Rainy Hokkaido: A Mélange of Weather

The forecast predicts a 100% chance of rain, a common theme during our three-day stay in Hokkaido. The weather, much like the region’s landscapes, is unpredictable, with showers in the morning giving way to clearer skies in the afternoon. It’s a testament to the region’s capricious climate, where you might find yourself under an umbrella one moment and basking in the sun the next.

Sapporo Station: A Confluence of Travel and Time

Leaving the hotel, we make our way to Sapporo Station, where the journey continues. A common mistake is conflating Sapporo Station with JR Sapporo Station, a distinction we inadvertently overlook. Fortunately, the stations are not too far apart. Outside JR Sapporo Station, a stunning clock adorns the facade, a constellation of stars frozen in time.

Dongfeng Line: A Scenic Route to Adventure

Our path leads us to the Dongfeng Line, where encouraging messages adorn the stairs, urging us to take the steps. Luggage in tow, we seek out storage to lighten our load, a prelude to the day’s adventures.

Sakae Town to Loop Tongdong: A Bus Journey

A bus ride takes us from Sakae Town to Loop Tongdong, a journey of three stops. The destination is Moerenuma Park, a place where art and nature converge in a spectacular display of human ingenuity.

Moerenuma Park: A Sculptural Oasis

Arriving at the east entrance of Moerenuma Park, we’re greeted by a group of fellow travelers. The park itself is a revelation, designed by the renowned sculptor Isamu Noguchi. The concept “the whole is a sculpture” comes to life in this sprawling landscape. A sudden rain shower adds an element of surprise, leading us to the pyramid, the park’s largest indoor structure.

The Pyramid: A Sanctuary of Art and Rest

Inside the pyramid, a cave-like ambiance envelops us, a stark contrast to the bustling world outside. A glass pyramid, the park’s emblem, offers a panoramic view of the surroundings, albeit obscured by the rain’s veil. The pyramid houses a rest area, restaurants, gift shops, and an exhibition room dedicated to Isamu Noguchi.

Molière: A Gastronomic Gem Amidst Art

Our lunch reservation at Molière, a sister store of the acclaimed Sapporo restaurant that received three Michelin stars, awaits. The menu is a testament to culinary artistry, with each dish a delight for the senses. From soybean soup to stewed lily roots and a unique fish dish, the experience is elevated by the restaurant’s attention to detail and exceptional service.

A Water Spray Show: Nature’s Choreographed Dance

Post-lunch, the water spray show begins, a mesmerizing spectacle that captivates the audience. The fountain, with a diameter of 48 meters and a water spray height of 25 meters, symbolizes the birth of life, infusing the park with vitality. The show concludes with a spontaneous round of applause, a collective appreciation for the display.

Mount Moelai: A Soaring Views and Serendipitous Weather

Climbing Mount Moelai, we traverse one of the five paths leading to the summit. The view from the top is breathtaking, a panorama of the entire park. The wind, strong and invigorating, dances among the grass and trees. Descending the same path, we’re greeted by the sun’s warmth, a stark contrast to the earlier rain.

Old Hokkaido Government Building: A Glimpse of History

Our journey takes us to the old Hokkaido Government Building, a site currently under renovation. Despite the construction, the building’s legacy is preserved through thoughtful displays, allowing visitors to envision its past glory. The adjacent red brick terrace offers a vantage point to reflect on Hokkaido’s history.

Ainu Culture: A Vibrant Heritage

At Sapporo Station, an area is dedicated to promoting Ainu culture, a poignant reminder of Hokkaido’s indigenous roots. A brief respite before our departure, it’s a chance to appreciate the region’s rich cultural tapestry.

New Chitose Airport: A Haven for Souvenirs

Our final destination is New Chitose Airport, a bustling hub of local products. The airport is a treasure trove of souvenirs, from limited edition treats to artisanal crafts. A last-minute shopping spree ensues, with purchases ranging from apple pies to scallop salted snacks and soup curry-flavored potato chips.

Flight to Haneda: A Farewell to Hokkaido

With our bags packed and hearts full, we prepare for the flight to Haneda. A slight delay doesn’t dampen our spirits, as we reflect on the memories made in Hokkaido. The return trip, facilitated by ANA’s special tickets, marks the end of a summer adventure filled with new experiences and a longing for a winter return.

Reflections: A Call to Return

As the plane takes off, we bid farewell to Hokkaido’s summer landscapes, with a promise to return in winter. The dual nature of the region, from its hot summer days to its snow-covered winters, beckons us to explore its otherworldly beauty in a different season. Until then, Hokkaido, you remain etched in our memories, a place where every corner hides a new story waiting to be told.

In the realm of travel, Hokkaido stands as a testament to nature’s resilience and human creativity. From the bustling streets of Sapporo to the serene landscapes of Moerenuma Park, every moment is a reminder of the region’s charm. Whether you’re a seasoned traveler or a curious wanderer, Hokkaido promises an adventure that will linger long after your departure, a place where memories are made and cherished for a lifetime.