A Culinary Journey to Hiroshima: Unraveling the Secrets of Okonomiyaki

By Onigiri Rin

In the heart of Japan, where history whispers through every alley and modernity dances with tradition, lies the city of Hiroshima. Known for its resilience and rebirth, Hiroshima also holds a special place in the culinary landscape. Today, I invite you to join me on a gastronomic adventure as we explore the soul of Hiroshima through its most beloved dish: Okonomiyaki. Let’s peel back the layers of this savory delight and discover the flavors that have enchanted palates for generations.

The Tale of Two Cities: Okonomiyaki in Kansai vs. Hiroshima

In the culinary world, Okonomiyaki is a dish that tells a tale of regional identity. In the Kansai region, Okonomiyaki is a harmonious mix, where ingredients are finely chopped and blended into the batter, creating a uniform texture. However, in Hiroshima, the approach is vastly different. Here, ingredients are meticulously layered onto the dough as it’s being cooked, a process that requires both skill and patience.

A Glimpse into the Kitchen: The Art of Okonomiyaki

Stepping into a Hiroshima Okonomiyaki restaurant is like entering a culinary theatre, where every table is a front-row seat to a performance. The kitchen is an open stage, dominated by a large iron griddle. The master chefs, with spatulas in hand, are the stars of the show. I was lucky enough to witness the creation of Nikutama Soba, a classic Hiroshima Okonomiyaki dish, and the experience was nothing short of mesmerizing.

The Process: From Dough to Delight

The chef began by spreading a thin layer of dough on the griddle, a canvas for the culinary masterpiece that was about to unfold. Dried bonito flakes were sprinkled liberally, adding a hint of umami that would deepen the rich flavors. Next came the shredded cabbage, a mountain of freshness that would wilt under the heat, releasing its natural sweetness. Bean sprouts were added for a touch of crunch, followed by succulent pieces of pork that sizzled and danced on the griddle.

The batter, poured over the ingredients, acted as a binding agent, uniting the diverse components into a cohesive whole. The precision with which the chef flipped the Okonomiyaki, ensuring each layer was cooked to perfection, was a testament to years of practice and passion. Eggs were cracked over the Okonomiyaki, adding a layer of richness and moisture. Finally, the Okonomiyaki was flipped once more, allowing the egg to cook gently, creating a velvety texture.

The Finishing Touches: Sauce, Bonito, and Nori

No Okonomiyaki is complete without its final touches. A generous drizzle of sauce, a blend of sweet and savory, was applied. The sauce, rich and complex, brought out the best in each ingredient, acting as the conductor of flavors. Dried bonito flakes were sprinkled generously, dancing on the heat, and green seaweed (nori) added a crisp, salty note. The Okonomiyaki was now ready to be served, a symphony of flavors and textures.

A Bite into Tradition: Eating Okonomiyaki the Hiroshima Way

In Hiroshima, Okonomiyaki is not just a dish; it’s a tradition. Many locals prefer to eat it directly from the iron griddle using a spatula, a method that’s both practical and deeply rooted in the city’s history. After World War II, when resources were scarce, eating Okonomiyaki with a spatula was a way to avoid the expense of disposable chopsticks and the need to wash dishes. This practice, known as “kote” in Osaka, has become a hallmark of Hiroshima’s Okonomiyaki culture.

The Social Fabric of Okonomiyaki

Okonomiyaki is more than just food; it’s a social experience. In Hiroshima, it’s not uncommon to find generations of families gathered around a griddle, sharing stories and laughter over a meal. The dish has become a symbol of community, a place where the old and the young come together, united by the love of good food.

Customization and Creativity: Making Okonomiyaki Your Own

One of the most enchanting aspects of Okonomiyaki is its versatility. While Nikutama Soba is a classic choice, the options for customization are endless. From seafood like shrimp, squid, and Hiroshima’s famed sea oysters to unconventional additions like cheese and mochi, the possibilities are as vast as your imagination. Each Okonomiyaki becomes a personal creation, a reflection of your taste and preferences.

The Fullness of Experience: Okonomiyaki and Noodles

In Hiroshima, Okonomiyaki is often enjoyed alongside noodles, making it a satisfying and filling meal. This combination, unique to Hiroshima, elevates Okonomiyaki from being a side dish to a complete meal, a testament to the city’s culinary ingenuity.

Conclusion: A Journey Through Flavor

As my culinary adventure in Hiroshima comes to an end, I’m left with a profound appreciation for the depth and complexity of Okonomiyaki. This dish is not just a meal; it’s a story of resilience, creativity, and community. It’s a symbol of Hiroshima’s past, present, and future, a dish that invites you to savor the flavors of tradition and innovation. So, the next time you find yourself in Hiroshima, don’t just eat Okonomiyaki; immerse yourself in its tale. It’s a journey you won’t forget.